Posted September 18, 2015
BAD NOISE IS THAT TINNY, HIGH-PITCHED SQUALL THAT CAN WHIP THROUGH A RESTAURANT LIKE A FLOCK OF CROWS.”
From the outside, Untitled looks like one of those places where intimate
conversation gets lost in the din.
The restaurant, which anchors the architect Renzo Piano’s new home for the Whitney Museum of American Art in the meatpacking district, has all the makings of a cacophony box. The primary walls are glass. That back wall is concrete. The floors? Blue Catalan limestone. The cooks chop and sear in an open kitchen, and the tables don’t have tablecloths.